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FAQs
Read Up FAQs
Because we custom fit each Air-Pot to its rootball, we can only give precise dimensions by measuring each one. However, the table below gives rough approximations.
Litres | Approx Diameter (cm) | Approx Height(cm) |
---|---|---|
50 | 40 | 40 |
80 | 50.5 | 40 |
150 | 62 | 50 |
200 | 70 | 60 |
300 | 80 | 60 |
400 | 92.5 | 60 |
500 | 113 | 60 |
600 | 113 | 60 |
800 | 120 | 70 |
1000 | 140 | 70 |
1500 | 170 | 70 |
2000 | 180 | 80 |
2500 | 200 | 80 |
3000 | 220 | 80 |
4000 | 240 | 80 |
No. Trees grow mainly from the tips of their branches and roots and laterally from nodes at branching points, so the length of the main trunk, measured from the ground to the first main lateral branches, will remain pretty much the same unless the lower branches are pruned away or the tree naturally drops them.
Theoretically yes, but it would have to be quite a young tree for it to ever look good, and it isn’t an easy thing for a novice to get right. Also, many of the varieties commonly used for pleaching are somewhat slow growing (hornbeam, beech, evergreen oak), so if these are varieties of interest be aware that it will be a very long time before a newly pleached specimen fills in and begins to take shape.
It depends on the variety. Evergreen oaks, hollies and Portugese laurel (Prunus lusitanica) respond well to clipping, and Hornbeam is amenable to being trained into all sorts of shapes. For most garden tree varieties, very regular light pruning will certainly slow down a growth rate, but this sort of maintenance pruning becomes much harder to manage once the tree grows beyond easy reach. And whilst tree surgeons can be brought in to take up the baton, over time the tree can end up with blunt ends on the branches which is not the most graceful silhouette in winter and may give an unnatural crown shape in summer.
It’s quite easy actually! You can do it yourself with a trowel and a jar of water, but rather than explain all that here, we’d recommend you google ‘how to work out your soil type’ to access some quick demonstration videos.
According to this law, a person has the right to ask the council to intervene if the following conditions apply:
- The objectionable hedge is comprised of 2 or more mostly evergreen or semi-evergreen trees or shrubs
- The trees are over 2 metres tall
- The trees are affecting one’s enjoyment of their home or garden because they are too tall
- The person being affected has already attempted to resolve the issue by speaking with the owner of the trees directly.
The third point above is quite important. One’s neighbours are far, far less likely to object if the screening trees do not block sunlight into their garden.
No, not generally speaking, but gated communities, leasehold properties, communal access grounds etc. may have restrictions.
If the tree has a TPO (tree protection order) on it, then you will need to get permission from the council to take it down. You will normally have to replace it with a variety from an approved list of options, which they will provide, of an approved minimal size.
Yes and no. A true tree will not thrive indefinitely in a pot (except as a bonsai), unless that pot is changed for a larger one every few years to accommodate for the expanding root system. Having said that, you can still get several years of enjoyment out of a tree planted in a pot, especially if you fertilise it regularly (this is crucial). Slower and smaller growing varieties will of course last longer. Think of it like garden furniture. That doesn’t last forever either but is still well worth the investment.
I’m afraid not. It is vital that the soil level after the trees are planted sits no more than a centimetre or so above the top of the rootball. Wet soil sitting against the bark at the base of the tree will rot the trunk. Odd, I know, when you think that the roots immediately below that point are perfectly adapted for life in moist soil! The marvels of nature.
Weight of course. And increasing weight over time. And the added weight of the compost, remembering that this will be much heavier after watering. Also, how you will get it to the roof. A crane may provide that solution, which we can arrange. If it is a mature tree you are after, or a tree which will be a permanent feature in your roof garden, it is important to consult with a specialist.
It depends on the variety. Evergreen oaks, hollies and evergreen magnolias respond well to clipping, and Hornbeam is amenable to being trained into all sorts of shapes. For most garden tree varieties, very regular light pruning will certainly slow down a growth rate, but this sort of maintenance pruning becomes much harder to manage once the tree grows beyond easy reach. And whilst tree surgeons can be brought in to take up the baton, over time the tree will end up with blunt ends on the branches which is unsitely in winter and gives an unnatural crown shape in summer.